Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Cneifion Arete intial climb, and Parsons Nose

  1. #1
    Mini Goon
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    138


    I know it's a way off yet but I'm planning on doing both of these in the summer unroped (as it's the only way I've ever known). I'm a fairly confident scrambler and have previously completed Bastow Buttress, Bristly Ridge,Aonach Eagach, and Tower Ridge all unroped with the exception of crossing tower gap, where we roped up for safety. I'm curious on how technical the initial climb is onto the cneifion arete - I've seen it frequently described as a mod diff. Is the rock sound? Plenty of foot and hand holds? Is there an easier way onto the ridge? Same thing really with the Parsons nose on the Clogwyn y Person. I know that this can be bypassed however I would like to tackle it if possible - it would seem a shame not to. Again, I know its steep but how technical is it? I should also mention I'd be wearing hiking boots!




  2. #2
    Mini Goon
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    138


    I've tried to find some decent high resolution images of both these pitches (with at least 1 person climbing them) on the web but am struggling to find anything - so if anybody has any, I'd appreciate it.

  3. #3
    Initiate
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    973


    Sorry no photos. However, the hardest part of Cneifon ridge is the first 80ft. It's probably about Mod. It's quite steep, but the holds are big. After that it's simple, but exposed scrambling.

    Take a short length of rope and some slings. You can set up a fairly simple self belay system. Hang sling over spike. Tie one end of rope to it. Estimate how much rope you need to reach next spike and tie onto a bit of rope that length. Climb up to spike. Pull up rope and sling from lower spike. Rinse and continue. It's a reasonable system for protecting short sections.

    Edit. Have a look herewhich has some photos of what to expect.

    You should be fine in ordinary boots. I have done it in Koflachs and crampons and although it's supposed to be Winter IV, it's not much harder than in summer.

  4. #4
    Initiate
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    870


    Quite a few videos on YouTube eghttps://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cneifion+arete

  5. #5
    Mini Goon
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    138
    Quote Originally Posted by I'm assuming the first image in that article shows the initial climb? If so - I reckon I can cope with that. Plenty of good hand and foot holds. I'll just remember not to look down!geekinthesticks View Post

    Edit. Have a look herewhich has some photos of what to expect.







  6. #6
    Initiate
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    973


    Yes, I think so. As I said, steep but good holds.

Similar Threads

  1. Cneifion Arete...?
    By 10k Star in forum Walking and Climbing
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 24-07-2014, 12:04 PM
  2. Cold nose!?! How to cover it?
    By earthly in forum Gear
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 22-10-2012, 01:43 PM
  3. sunglasses nose shield
    By mac belcher 2 in forum Gear
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-05-2008, 10:25 PM
  4. Scramble Route - Cneifion Arete, Snowdonia
    By Glynn Leaning in forum Walking and Climbing
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-04-2008, 07:12 PM
  5. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 13-08-2007, 05:56 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •