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Thread: Greenland - Arctic Circle Trail, Disko Island & Ilulisat

  1. #21
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    Ed, Mole and Paddy - thanks!I'm still dreaming, the above photo beingmy screen saver at work. I still feel hugely grateful to have done what/been whereI did, so very different to the usual stuff. Anyone reading this who might be interested- do it! If uncertain, then do the ACT and scoot north to Ilulissat (fly or boat from Sisimuit), maybe a boat ride to Disko and 2 - 3 days spent there, followed up by a few nights around Ilulissat to see the views above? Plenty of camping opportunities to contain costs.

    I'm extremelygrateful to Paddy for his help on this trip, especially for the ACT part. The rest - I was rather on my own!

    Paddy - re icebergs, someone in Sisimuit told me of a monster tsunami from a toppling berg. Apparently it sucked all the water out of a harbour (not sure where but think somewhere close-ish), grounding the boats. Then the water rolled back in asa vast wave, smashing the lot, he said. These things stick in the mind when heading off into the sticks!

  2. #22
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    Nice photo!

  3. #23
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    I wish I could sort out something to link to the videos, both of the ice at thecamp site and the boat trips. I'll work on it... But thanks zero!

  4. #24
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    Well, this might work, but I don't know if it's possible to do videos on Flickr? I have never used it before...

    I particularly like the ice and harebells one.

    <a href='https://www.flickr.com/photos/127266110@N07/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow'>


  5. #25
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    <a href='https://www.flickr.com/photos/127266110@N07/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow'>

    The link got lost - try again...

  6. #26
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    The last stage. I have put a few more pics on Flickr (link),but stillcan't work out how to order them. I have retained their numbers tho, so one can work out what follows what. I've still todo the final ones.

    #############

    I woke to sunshine (again) and pootled about, drank tea, enjoyed the view, the peace. A guy turned up at 8 and we got ‚??chatting', neither able to speak the other's language. By drawings, he explained he was a fisherman and had come to check the seal trap close to my tent. I'd noticed a thin rope going from the rocks into the water, with 4 very small floats out in the little bay. He drew a wicker-like rectangular cage structure, then a seal in the water, then pointing to the cage. Clearly seals are caught because of the impact they have on the all-important fishing business here. He walked on and an hour later, two guys walked past following the shore, both with rifles.

    I packed up (with huge reluctance!) and headed into Ilulissat. It was an easy path but more of a climb than I expected. Sled dogs galore outside the town, dozens of snowmobiles parked up outside dealers and engineers. I bought stuff for those back home and took a taxi to the airport. The driver told me that he shoots seals ‚?? and eats the meat. The flight to Kang got me there mid/late pm. I was met by the hostel car for the 3 km drive to where I'd left my daysac etc 4 weeks earlier. It felt longer, so much happening since then. Back to the airport restaurant later for a superb ‚?? and cheap ‚?? steak, thence to the bar. I got chatting with the receptionist/barmaid, then one of the cooks joined us. Several bottles of Moskus (Muskox, the only Greenland beer, designed to accompany Muskox meat and very strong) beer later, chips and chocolate provided by the staff etc, I toddled back to the hostel.

    Next day, it was Copenhagen, 11 hrs or so to wait there (I slept on the floor on the abandoned Floor 4), then Gatwick and home. A shock‚?¶

    I may write a few salient points of the trip at some stage, in the hope that others may benefit one day. Thanks for reading the report!

  7. #27
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    That link has got screwed up - use the one above...

  8. #28
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    Just seen the photos on flickr. Great work. Looks stunning.The iceberg shots have a real atmosphere to them.

  9. #29
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    Zero, thanks. I have just added 5 more pics. Look at Gull Reflections - and my last camp. Sort of captures it all, the latter part, at least. In my heart, I'm still there, so all this is keeping me there a little longer before hitting reality!

  10. #30
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    If OM gave a prize for 'best trip report' this would get my vote. Thanks for writing it up and adding pics

  11. #31
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    Crikey Milly, that's really kind! I did wonder how it would be received - cautious of appearing to be banging on about the trip. I was just so lucky, in so many, manyways. The 'prayer' of thanks on my 'Pointy Peak' showed how it felt even then - and that was well before Disko and the walk south of Ilulissat. So if you ever got the chance of going yourself - grab it!

  12. #32
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    Well... if Rob's trip inspires anyone to go trekking in Greenland, then that's brilliant. I think he approached it the right way, by trekking the Arctic Circle Trail first, to get a feel for the place, before heading off to do more adventurous stuff. One of the things about Greenland is that you have to be better at reading the TERRAIN, than reading a MAP. In other words, you can use the map to figure out all sorts of possibilities, and also spot potential problems, but once you're actually following a route, you really should be looking very carefully at the terrain, and watch out for easier options if your chosen route is turning out to be full of problems. I guess Greenland is one of those places where you can still go, and know that you're completely on your own, and can get on with exploring the way it used to be in the olden days!

  13. #33
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    Hi Paddy. It was absolutely my plan to go on the ACT first, to sus out the area. From this, two exploratory side trips - add-ons as you call them. As good as zero chance of seeing anyone on either, I'd say, so this puts one in a better position to take on Disko. Of course this is very much further north but I certainly felt better able to deal with it then - apart from the tinkling stone on my fist night there!

    Fully agree re navigation. I used a compass hardly at all, but strongly advise anyone going to become fully conversant with magnetic deviation etc. Note that the figures given for it relate to true north, and one has to then work out grid north, the difference not being given. I used my compass to measure the difference on the little 'diagram'of the 3 norths. I also used the almost diagonal lines of the magnetic north on the map, but preferred the former.

    I have an altimeter on my watch and this was used much more than the compass, though the mirror on that saw service several timesto aidremoving those wretched flies from my eyes! That is one of the main reasons I always take such a compass.

    One point to note re the ACT: I and others found the police most reluctant to take names etc of anyone walking the trail, so we didn't bother. I daresay they may have done had we insisted, but suspect the increased use of the trail means they are asked thismore than they can cope with.

  14. #34
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    I think there are only two policemen at Kangerlussuaq and four at Sisimiut, and I guess it's a bit much to ask them to cover 100 miles of nothingness in-between those places, when they have other things to be doing! I didn't bother letting them know where I was going, and in fact, I only met one person who had left his details. He asked the police if they would come looking for him if he didn't show up at the end of the trail. They said they wouldn't, unless they heard specifically from someone that he needed assistance. I gather someone was 'rescued' from the middle of the trail recently, and from what I could gather, it was because his feet were shredded.

  15. #35

    Looking for contact info for Rob Dixon

    Sorry to add to an older thread, but I was wondering if anyone had a way to contact Rob? I have sent a private message on here but unfortunately haven't had a response. The reason I ask is because I will be heading off to Greenland next week to take on the ACT, as well as the Disko Bay area and I'd would love to pick Rob's brain about some hiking possibilities on Qeqertsuaq. Thanks in advance for any help

  16. #36
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    I have re-appeared... Had rather given up with OM, kept spitting me out, having to log in again and again, too many adverts - and I have been busy getting married! I have replied to Kain, but I fear rather too late. Happy to help others if they fancy an incredible trip?
    Rob

  17. #37
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    Yes, Rob, you can add me on to the list
    Maybe a month there from Mid August next year, but need to take my time so a few, 'add-ons' to see a bit more than the ACT....appreciate a PM where I can ask you questions...
    Last edited by Boos; 07-12-2017 at 06:21 PM.

  18. #38
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    You had a fantastic trip.
    Flights have been checked out...

  19. #39
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    Terrific, Rob.....

  20. #40
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    Not sure what happened - my reply seems to have vanished. Boos, yes, do send a PM, happy to help. I'm only on this site occasionally nowadays tho. Greenland was awesome, would love to go back,
    Cheers,
    Rob

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