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Thread: Anyone used the Scarpa Freney for real?

  1. #1
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    Just wondering if anyone out there's used the Scarpa Freney on steep ice and how it performed, also how comfortable it is for walk ins. The sole seems a bit flat - no real rocker to it - so I'm wondering how comfortable it'll be.

  2. #2
    ‹bermensch joan collins's Avatar
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    I bought a pair of Freneys to use in the Alps this summer. I first spent a weekend poncing around Tryfan to 'break them in' - totally unnecessarily as it turned out, as comfort has been superb from day one. They performed well here on wet as well as dry rock. The toe shape and the non-rounded rand help with precision edging, and there's plenty of rubber up the sides for added friction.

    In the Alps, I used them both with and without crampons - either way they were incredibly light and comfortable, including on long walk-ins. The flat sole does make walking feel awkward at first, but I soon got used to it, and I didn't have that usual feeling of wanting to tear my boots off at the end of the day the minute I got through the door. In fact, now that I'm used to them, I actually find them more comfortable than regular walking boots.


  3. #3
    ‹bermensch joan collins's Avatar
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    The only problem I had was with crampons - my existing ones popped off because of the shape of the boot. I ended up buying some Charlet Moser RapidFix S12's, which fit fine and suited my purposes (mostly mixed climbing). However I think an expert ice climber might have difficulty getting a crampon to fit. Certainly the choice would be restricted.

    I'm not sure if they made my ice/mixed climbing any better; mere boots wouldn't be enough here. But I felt a lot more confident with marginal foot placements, simply because I could actually feel exactly where my feet were going and trust my stability more.

    They're not an especially warm boot. I had no real problems in the Alps, despite a lot of wading through deep snow, but I'm not sure how they'll bear up in winter. And they're not entirely waterproof either, which in itself might rule them out for serious winter use.

    I have some reservations about the durability of these boots. Construction appears OK, but not up to the standard of some of Scarpa's other boots. Nothing's gone wrong yet, but the upper leather looks like it's been up Everest then chewed by the dog after only around 4 weeks use. And the little ribbon-things which hold the laces look stretched and distorted.

    These are without doubt the lightest and most comfortable boots I've ever owned, and virtually perfect for summer alpine use. I think they need a little tweaking to bring them up to standard for winter though.

    (sent in 2 parts because it goes on a bit)

  4. #4
    Super Moderator Jon Doran's Avatar
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    Interesting on the crampon front. At the risk of stating the obvious, my old 2Fs don't fit the Freney but DMM's Terminator's banana-type profile matches the boot almost exactly.

    My only misgivings about the Terminator is the Meccano-type construction. The whole thing seems to be held together with nuts and bolts. I'm not saying they won't hold together just fine in use and I accept that it's the price you pay for the modular construction, but it is just a little unsettling - we'll see what happens this winter...

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